I recently visited Japan once again. This time I focused mostly on Tokyo and the immediate area around it. As a part of this, I took a trip down to the Boso Peninsula in Chiba Prefecture and discovered a charming place called Ryokan Monya. Located in the southernmost town of Shirahama in Minamiboso, this ryokan offers a unique mix of history, ocean views, and incredible local culture.
Kyoo nite mo
Kyoo natsukashi ya
hototogisu
Even in Kyoto
Longing for Kyoto
Hearing the Cuckoo
Matsuo Basho,
17th century haiku poet
The journey itself set the tone for the trip. I departed from Tokyo by car, and the drive took about an hour and a half. Driving through the Tokyo Bay Tunnel and stopping at Umihotaru is always a highlight, but watching the scenery change from the concrete jungle to the lush Chiba countryside was refreshing.
Upon arriving at the town where Monya is located, I was immediately greeted by friendly staff who helped me with parking and guided me inside. The hospitality here is rooted in history. The inn was actually founded over 100 years ago in 1919 and has been serving travelers through generations, from naval officers in the past to beachgoers today.
Stepping into the lobby, I noticed something unique right away. The decorations were not just standard hotel decor. I learned that the owner’s wife is a calligrapher and artist. She curates seasonal installations in the lobby that change almost every month. During my visit, the theme was Torino-ichi, but I was told they change it for cherry blossom season, Children’s Day, and other holidays.
Her calligraphy art is displayed throughout the building, making a walk through the ryokan feel like visiting a small art museum. It adds a personal touch that you rarely find in large hotel chains.
I stayed in a room that was a fascinating hybrid. It had the traditional elements you expect from a ryokan, such as tatami flooring and a low table for tea, but it also featured a lower, Western-style bed. It was the perfect balance of comfort and tradition.
However, the real highlight of the room was its unforgettable view. My room looked directly out over the ocean. Watching the waves crash against the mighty rocks right in front of the hotel was breathtaking. In the distance, I could see the Nojimazaki Lighthouse standing on the cape. As the afternoon sun began to set, the contrast of the lighthouse against the sea and the rocky shore was a spectacular sight that I will not forget.
And even later in the evening, this was a spectacular sight with the lighthouse beaming its light into the distance and the waves crashing on the shore made a perfect backdrop for sleep.
No trip to a ryokan is complete without visiting the bath. Monya has two main hot spring baths, “Hikari no Yu” and “Kino Yu,” which alternate between men and women. I visited the bath assigned to men at the time and found it to be the perfect way to unwind after the drive. The water is a sodium chloride bicarbonate spring, which is great for circulation and recovering from fatigue. There is something deeply healing about soaking in hot water while listening to the sounds of the ocean nearby.
Additionally, some rooms have a private hot bath, and there is an additional hot bath you can reserve for private use.
Dinner was another great feature of the stay. The meal was a multi-course kaiseki feast featuring fresh local ingredients. We started with sashimi, which is expected in a seaside town, but the creativity of the other dishes surprised me.
The standout dish for me was a unique combination of salmon and pear served with truffle olive oil. It was an amazing flavor profile I had never experienced before. I also enjoyed a Wagyu beef dish served with lotus root buns, which was rich and satisfying. Another interesting course was a medicinal hot pot that felt slightly Korean in style, featuring glutinous rice and berries. It was delicious and felt very nourishing. I finished the meal with a refreshing two-color grape jelly.
Breakfast the next morning was equally impressive. It featured many delicious dishes all made from local ingredients. It also included a soft-boiled “onsen egg” and locally sourced natto.
The location of Monya makes it an excellent base for exploration. I spent time walking along the coast to the Nojimazaki Lighthouse. You can actually climb to the top for a panoramic view and visit the attached museum. Nearby, there is a traditional fertility shrine with torii gates that gives you a sense of old Japan.
I also walked to a spot known as the “Lover’s Bench.” It is a large white bench perched atop the rugged rocks at the southernmost point of the peninsula. Even if you are not there for romance, walking among the massive rocks and seeing the fishermen preparing their ships for the sea offers a great connection to the local lifestyle.
For those interested in traditional crafts, I highly recommend trying a workshop nearby. I took a lesson from one of the few remaining masters of Boso-style traditional fan making. I even created my own fan to bring home as a souvenir.
While I was traveling solo this time, I noticed something very specific about Monya. They are extremely baby-friendly. This is quite rare for traditional ryokans, which often have strict rules. Monya markets itself as the number one inn for staying with babies. They have a dedicated “Baby Lounge” with toys, provide baby food, and offer rental equipment so parents do not have to pack everything. If you are traveling with a young family, this place is a fantastic option.
On my way back to Tokyo, I stopped at Nokogiriyama. It is a mountain famous for its jagged rock formations, ancient temples, and a massive Buddha statue carved into the stone. You can take a ropeway up or drive to a nearby parking lot and hike. It is relatively close on your way back from the hotel and makes for a perfect stop to end the trip.
My stay at Ryokan Monya was a perfect escape from the city. Whether you are looking for a romantic getaway, a solo retreat to enjoy nature and onsens, or a stress-free trip with a baby, this historic inn covers it all. The combination of warm hospitality, artistic touches, and stunning ocean views makes it a place I highly recommend.
