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On my recent journey through Japan, I was looking for a relaxing retreat away from the bustling cities and well known tourist paths. I found exactly that at Yugawara Retreat Enso, a modern ryokan nestled in the peaceful town of Yugawara Onsen.
Leaving the lively streets of Tokyo behind, I embarked on a scenic two-hour train ride south to Yugawara Onsen. The journey itself was a pleasure, with Japan’s efficient transport system making travel smooth and enjoyable. Upon arriving at Yugawara Station, I hopped on a short bus ride that wound its way up into the mountainous valley where the ryokan is located.
As the bus drove through the picturesque town, I was captivated by the serene atmosphere. Traditional and modern ryokans lined the streets, and a gentle river flowed through the heart of the town, adding to its charm.
Stepping off the bus, I made my way to Yugawara Retreat Enso. From the outside, the building exuded the classic ryokan aesthetic, and I later learned that it is a 100-year-old traditional house beautifully renovated into a modern lodging. The entrance featured a traditional lobby where guests are invited to remove their shoes and slip into comfortable house slippers—a welcoming nod to Japanese customs.
I was greeted by the friendly owner, who showed me around and pointed out some of the things that make this place stand out. Right at the entrance, there was a spacious kitchen and counter area where guests could prepare their own meals or rent out the kitchen facilities. A selection of drinks was also available, adding to the homey feel of the place.
One of the unique aspects of Yugawara Retreat Enso is its strong focus on art. The owner guided me to the on-site gallery, an interesting feature of the ryokan that I have not seen in other such places. The gallery showcases artworks created by artists who stay at the hotel, with a dedicated studio—converted from an old garage—where creativity comes to life. Guests can admire the pieces on display and even purchase them as a memory of their stay.
Adding to the artistic ambiance, there’s a beautiful old piano in the gallery area. On certain evenings, local musicians come to the ryokan to do live performances for the guests.
Yugawara Retreat Enso caters especially to solo travelers seeking a peaceful retreat. The ryokan offers 14 rooms, most of which are cozy spaces featuring a single tatami bed—ideal for individuals. This focus makes it a popular choice among solo adventurers who wish to experience the Japanese countryside away from the crowded tourist spots.
I was fortunate to stay in one of the larger rooms. My room was spacious, with a larger tatami mat, a comfortable table for relaxation or writing, and an en-suite bathroom. A delightful touch was the artwork adorning the walls, created by artists associated with the hotel.
No stay in an onsen town would be complete without enjoying the hot springs. While Yugawara Retreat Enso doesn’t have its own onsen baths within the building, guests have access to nearby baths located just down the street. There are two different facilities to choose from, together offering both indoor and outdoor baths with natural hot spring water renowned for its healing properties.
After a day of exploring in the cool, sometimes rainy weather, soaking in the warm onsen was pure bliss for me. The mineral-rich waters helped me with my fatigue and provided a deep sense of relaxation.
The town of Yugawara has interesting natural beauty and cultural sites. I took the opportunity to hike along scenic trails that led me through lush forests and up gentle hills following the local river, as well as by several waterfalls. One trail brought me to an enchanting shrine nestled among the trees—a serene spot that felt worlds away from the hustle of city life.
The area is also known for its citrus groves, particularly oranges, which add a fresh scent to the air during the growing season. The local tourist information center provided insights into the region’s history and offered suggestions for additional spots to visit.
On my last day, after checking out, I went down to the center of Yugawara town. I had hoped to try delicious ramen at one of Japan’s most famous ramen shops located there, but unfortunately, it was closed that day. As a big ramen fan, I was a bit sad, but I managed to buy some instant ramen from them to bring home with me.After that, I took a nice calm walk along the shore of the mighty Pacific Ocean, enjoying the sound of the waves and the expansive views.
Yugawara Retreat Enso provided exactly what I was seeking—a peaceful haven where I could relax and experience a less-traveled side of Japan. Its blend of traditional ryokan elements with modern amenities and an artistic twist that creates a comfortable environment that feels both authentic and accessible.
For solo travelers, especially those looking to explore beyond the typical tourist destinations, this ryokan is a gem. It’s an ideal spot to immerse oneself in the Japanese countryside, soak in healing onsen waters, and perhaps even find inspiration among the artistic surroundings.
Whether you’re on your second or third trip to Japan or simply prefer the road less traveled, Yugawara Retreat Enso offers a unique and enriching experience.
